Congee is rice cooked in plenty of water until the grains break down into a smooth, silky porridge. To make it, rinse 100 g of rice, bring it to the boil with about 1 litre of water or stock (roughly one part rice to ten parts liquid), then simmer gently with the lid ajar for 60 to 90 minutes, stirring now and then. Season at the end and add toppings: spring onion, ginger, soy sauce, sesame oil, something crunchy. That's the whole method. Everything else is texture, timing and toppings.
Across Asia this bowl goes by many names, and every household has its own version. Here's how to get the basics right, the four ways to cook it, and where to take it next.
One porridge, many names
Rice porridge is one of the most widely eaten comfort foods in the world. It turns up at breakfast, as late-night food, for anyone feeling under the weather, and at festivals. The name and the style change as you travel.
| Where | Name | Typical style |
|---|---|---|
| Southern China, Hong Kong | Jook | Very smooth, often cooked with stock, lots of toppings |
| Northern and central China | Zhou (粥) | Often plainer, and also made with millet, beans or mixed grains |
| Japan | Okayu | Gentle and lightly seasoned, served with pickled plum |
| Korea | Juk | Many versions, from pine nut to pumpkin |
| Vietnam | Cháo | Often with ginger, herbs and fried shallots |
| Thailand | Jok | Thick and smooth, with ginger and pepper |
| Philippines | Lugaw, arroz caldo | Ginger-rich, with garlic and calamansi |
| South India | Kanji | Rice gruel, sometimes with coconut or buttermilk |
In the Chinese tradition of yang sheng, or "nourishing life", congee has a special place. It is traditionally considered the gentlest of foods, easy on the stomach and suitable for every season, with ingredients changed to suit the weather. That is cultural tradition rather than medical advice, but anyone who has eaten a warm bowl on a cold morning will understand its appeal.
The basic method
Choose your rice
Almost any white rice works. Jasmine rice gives the classic fragrant Cantonese congee, and short-grain rice gives a creamier, stickier result closer to okayu. Many cooks add a spoonful of glutinous rice for extra silkiness. Brown rice works too, but it takes longer and stays more textured.
Pick your ratio
- 1 : 8 for a thick, spoonable porridge.
- 1 : 10 for a classic, flowing congee. This is a good starting point.
- 1 : 12 or more for a thin rice soup.
Measure by volume or weight, but be consistent. Congee thickens as it stands, so it's easier to aim a little thin and let it settle.
Cook it
- Rinse the rice two or three times until the water runs mostly clear, then drain.
- Optional Cantonese step: toss the drained rice with half a teaspoon of salt and a teaspoon of neutral oil and leave it for 20 minutes. This helps the grains break down into a smoother porridge.
- Bring the liquid to the boil, add the rice and stir well so nothing sticks.
- Lower to a gentle simmer, with the lid ajar to stop it boiling over.
- Stir every 10 to 15 minutes, scraping the bottom, and more often towards the end as it thickens.
- After 60 to 90 minutes the grains should have burst and the porridge should be creamy. Add hot water if it's too thick.
- Season at the end with salt, white pepper and a little light soy sauce.
The freezer trick. Rinse and drain the rice, then freeze it in a bag for a few hours or overnight. Frozen grains crack as they hit boiling water, and many cooks find the congee turns silky noticeably sooner.
Four ways to cook congee
On the hob
The classic method, as above: 60 to 90 minutes, with regular stirring. It gives you the most control.
In a pressure cooker
Use a slightly lower ratio (about 1 : 7, as there's little evaporation), cook at high pressure for about 20 to 30 minutes and let the pressure release naturally. Starchy foods foam, so never fill the pot beyond the maximum line your manufacturer gives for grains.
In a rice cooker or slow cooker
Many rice cookers have a porridge setting, so add rice and water and walk away. A slow cooker on low overnight gives you breakfast congee waiting in the morning.
With leftover rice
The weeknight shortcut. Simmer one part cooked rice with three to four parts water or stock for 20 to 30 minutes, stirring and mashing a little, until it's creamy. It's not quite as silky, but it's very good.
Toppings: where congee comes alive
Plain congee is deliberately mild. The toppings do the talking, so offer several and let everyone build their own bowl.
- Aromatic: finely shredded ginger, sliced spring onion, coriander, fried shallots or garlic.
- Savoury: light soy sauce, toasted sesame oil, chilli oil, white pepper.
- Salty and sharp: pickled mustard greens, pickled radish, fermented bean curd.
- Crunchy: roasted peanuts, toasted sesame seeds, strips of fried dough (youtiao).
- Substantial: sautéed mushrooms, cubes of tofu, blanched greens, a soft egg.
Beyond plain rice
Once you have the method, congee becomes a template. Savoury versions add mushrooms, greens or tofu. Others swap part of the rice for millet, oats, barley or beans, and sweet versions add dates, sesame or sweet potato. Our book Yang Sheng gives congees and rice porridges a whole chapter of their own, all plant-based. A few to start with:
- Shiitake & Spring Onion Congee: the savoury bowl to learn first, deep with mushroom flavour.
- Golden Millet Congee: quicker than rice, sunny yellow and gently sweet.
- Sweet Potato Congee: a northern Chinese breakfast favourite.
- Eight-Treasure Congee: mixed grains, beans, nuts and dried fruit, related to the Laba Festival Congee eaten on the eighth day of the twelfth lunar month.
You can search every congee across the collection with the recipe finder. If you like the idea of a bowl as a whole meal, our tour of soups of the world in 15 bowls has plenty more.
Common mistakes
- Not enough water. A ratio that looks right at the start becomes stodgy. Keep hot water to hand.
- Too high a heat. A rolling boil scorches the bottom and boils over. A lazy simmer is what you want.
- Forgetting to stir. The last half hour is when it catches. Stir from the bottom.
- Seasoning too early. Congee reduces, so salt at the end.
- Serving it naked. Plain congee is a canvas. Always add at least two toppings.
Questions people ask
What is the difference between congee and rice porridge?
Nothing, really. "Congee" is the English word commonly used for Asian rice porridge. The word is thought to come from the Tamil kanji. Styles vary by country, from thick and smooth to thin and soupy.
How long does congee keep?
As with any cooked rice, cool it quickly, refrigerate it within about an hour, and eat it within a day or two. It sets firm in the fridge, so reheat it gently with a splash of water, stirring until it's piping hot all the way through.
Can I make congee with brown rice?
Yes. Allow extra water and more time, up to two hours on the hob, or use a pressure cooker. The result is nuttier and more textured than white-rice congee.
Is congee savoury or sweet?
Both. Plain rice congee is usually eaten savoury, with soy sauce, ginger and pickles, but many traditional versions are sweet, made with red dates, adzuki beans, black sesame or sweet potato.